Ciao a Roma

In our last day in Rome we met our professor at the train station on the south side of town once again. We took a two hour train to a little town called Bagnaia near the city of Viterbo. The town houses a villa built by a rich cardinal in the 16th century.We spent about 2 hours exploring the site and roaming through the many parterre gardens. The gardens are famous for the series of fountains that are created without pumps. they stem from a single stream that comes from the hills and the garden was designed as a metaphor for the embracement of nature during the time of the Italian Renaissance. I have to admit that it was a little dissappointing after Villa d'Este. This garden only charge 2 euro to the 6 of d'Este and they have many less visitors in Bagnaia. The structures were covered with lichen and the fountains contained months' growth of algae. I suppose in a way, the disrepair added to the antique and aged appeal of the garden, but the uneven parterres made me sad. I ate my bag lunch in the town square while most of the class ate at the restaurant. I didn't mind though, I spent much less on lunch, and I was full when I finished. When we returned from out series of trains and buses, we walked around the city so that jackie could find a shot glass for her collection. We are making dinner in our apartment tonight before we wait up and leave for Florence tommorrow at 6 am.

Bicycle Races

As the penultimate day in Rome we travelled in a pretty somber way. We met for class at what is called the piramide. It literally is a pyramid that was built by Julius Caesar and Antony after they conquered Egypt. Apparently in that time all things Egyptian was very en vogue. Anyway, we talked about the pyramid a little, then went behind it to the Protestant Cemetary. It basically is the cemetary for anyone in Rome who is not Catholic. We saw greek, english, american, chinese, canadian, finnish and swiss tombstones. The only truly famous name buried there is John Keats whose headstone reads, Here lies a man whose name was writ in water. Names and ethinicity aside, the cemetary was quite beautiful and well established, especially the plantings. Being behind the walls, it was asthough we were out of Rome, away from the city and sounds. The large variety of plants and the mediterranean lighting probably added to the effect. We also stopped by the Roman WWII cemetary just to see a comparison of cemetary types. I found both rather sobering...each in its own way.
In the afternoon we headed south to the area of the Appio Antico. This is the road the Romans used to send their troops out of the city to conquer other towns, cities, and countries. Many of the original stones are still there today, but I will get to that in a moment. To start the afternoon we went to the Catacombs di San Calisto. There are over 15 km of catacombs in 4 floors. the tour only took about 1/2 hour and we only saw two tombs containing remains, but it still was very interesting to see the place where 100,000 romans were buried, including martyrs and popes. We also went through the church that according to locals contains a footprint of jesus from when he visited St Peter after he fled Rome and crucifiction(sp?). To make the day a little lighter we rent bicycles to ride down the Appio Antico. Since the road is ancient stone, it is desrepair in many places. The large stones make for interesting rides on a two wheel 3 speed bicycle. On the side on the road there were some paths put in but they too had their own form of moguls that took out more than a few of us. The scenery however was beautiful and we road by acres and acres of ruins that now make up a part of a huge public park. Inside this park stands some of the old aquaducts, churchs and castles. They all sit on rolling hills with fields of tall grass with red poppies and camomile. It was an enjoyable and very picturesque day. My roomates and I finished off the day by walking back to the park where we started the week. We watched the sun set on the city as we pointed out all the places we had been and what we had learned. I know it sounds little hokey, but I am suprised at myself and all I now know about the city of of S.P.Q.R and Rome.

Happy Easter...again

So, a funny thing happened yesterday. I was blessed by the Pope...along with about 60,000 other people standing in the square. We were lucky when we went to the plaza di san pietro because we were given access through security and as we got to a good viewing point, the music started. I guess i am lucky here in Italy. I am about the same height as the average italian man and i had no problem seeing the pope, other than the distance. We did not stay long...since none of us are catholic, but there was beautiful music, and one reading, that was actually in English. The rest of the day we walked around getting information together for our regional transect studies and we all did the same today, but solo. I was lucky in that I overheard a man talking to his wife about Campodoglio and I asked them where they were from. They responded 'Long beach'. Apparently the man went to Cal Poly's architecture program 30 years ago and is familiar with atleast 2 od my profs, including Gary Dwyer. He had spent a year abroad in Florence and wanted to take his wife here to show him wheer he studyied so long ago. We have class again tommorrow and hopefully will be going to Villa Lante. So keep your fingers crossed that I get to give my presentation on it. Ciao

I need a McDonalds...fast.

Sorry about the delay in the eurotrip update, but as there was a holiday this weekend, my access to wonderful american technologies was minimal at best. On saturday morning we took the metro the farthest we have yet. We took a train from the termini to the city of Naples. It took about 2 hours and I slept most of the way. We past by small farms, but nothing that could really be considered picturesque scenery. Once in the Station in Naples, or Napoli, we met up with the rest of our class and then took a 45 minute smaller train to Pompeii. All images and descriptions of the ruins did not prepare me for the sheer size and advancement of this 20,000 in population city. Because the city was covered with ash only and not winds or destructive forces, very much of it is still intact. The mosaics and paintings on many of the walls are stiil in order and on the edge on some buildings the signs, for the surgeon and smith are still readable. the ampllitheatre of the city sat 20, 000 and apparently like rome, had issues with hooligans and fights after the games that were held there. the part of pompeii that i didnt like, that is fascinating, yet morbid, is the castings of the victims of the city. The ashes covered many citizens who couldnt get out, and it wasnt till after almost 200 years of excavation that a man in the 1920's discovered what the cavities in the stone truly were. I did not enjoy, but had to look at the plaster of the suffering man. The screaming child shocked me, and took away all previous thought of lunch. After we left the ruins, there were fruit stand of juices. As any geologist would know, vocanic soil is one of the best to farm on. I bought a glass of blood orange juice and mary had a lemonade. They were both delicious, one sweet, one perfectly, pointedly tart.

Easter

Happy Easter, sorry I dont have much time. Im going to the vatican to see the Pope.

It's like Disney World...for landscape architects

This morning we took the metro to the outskirts of rome to meet Joe and the rest of the class at the bus stop. We then took a 45 minute ride to the town of Tivoli. We headed right to the villa of Cardinal d'este, 1530's and stayed there for about 3 hours. Its amazing how beautiful and well maintained this old villa is. Most of the fountains on the hill still work. we watched the water organ play and spent time sketching and walking through the many gardens with wisteria and tulips in bloom. With over 500 fountains still in use, even on a warm day, we were quite cool and ready to enjoy the garden's splendor. After we ate a small lunch at the cafe on the balconys above the valley, we nixed the trip to hadrian's villa because it was so late in the day. Insteas we went to an area of the town known as villa gregoriana. Its an old valley that used to have a large waterfall run through it. The water was recoursed due to flooding and now there are numerous cascades in the valley. After 2 hours of steps, climbing walls, and sneaking in to roped off areas with the professor, we were quite tired and ready to head home to Rome. The bus ride back was extremely packed and i have to stand for about 20 minutes of it with some girls from the area squeezing in next to me. The horrible situation did not put a damper on my day though, infact, on the bus flying down the curvy roads of the hills, it felt as though i was on a roller coaster, weaving between the olive trees. This day was not a day so much of historical education, but more of a fun day of outdoors and beautiful scenery. It might even have been my favorite one yet in the country of Italy, but then again, i might be biased as a design student. Anyway, we are heading to Pompeii tomorrow morning and I heard Naples is well...an interesting area, so we will see what the day brings.

Athens

I guess it was a good thing we got out of Greece and its ferries if you check the news.

All Roads lead to Rome

First of all, let me say, I am incredibly tired. We met for class at 10 am this morning at the Campoliglio. It served as a palace and home of the senate. The original buildings were redone by Michaelangelo and in sits up on a hill with very awkward steps. We were there for about an hour working on study. For those of you who are curious, as to what we do as landscape archiecture srudents in europe, i will explain. Generally we got to a location, whether well renown or hidden. Someone, student or our prof Joe will give a schpeal on the site. We will learn about its history. We are then released to draw it, and explore, while always experiencing it as a user. We then meet up again to analyze the goods the bads and why work, or dont work. we've done this so much after 4 days, i feel as though looking back, my head might spin. So, I will try to update this as often as possible so that i dont have to keep looking back in my journal on what i did that day.
After Campodoglio, my roomies and I headed towards the vatican. We grabbed a slice of pizza on the way, and got in line for St Peter's. The line was deceptively short as we wanted to climb the cupola, or dome. We waited in line for about an hour to buy a 4 euro ticket to climb 552 steps to the top. The view was gorgeous, and as a group we clmibed even higher on the butresses than generally allowed so that we could have photos without other poeple in them. The bells rang while we were on the roof, and the whole building vibrated. Aftre we climbed down form the dome, went inside the cathedral. As we were taking pictures we say a censor burning and some acolytes walked out of a hallway. Many men of the church were lined up and i am pretty sure a was just a few feet away from a cardinal of st peters. I suppose i would be more proud if i were catholic, but i think the experience was neat. We listened to much of the mass from inside the vhurch for a while as we could not see it. When we left church the service was actually being playe don some mega screens outside.
Atfer the vatican, we walked down one fo the major shopping districts, but found that the prices were too steep to bother. We decided we will wait until florence to really buy anything as it is much less touristy. I am very tired, as are my poor feet. I think i destroyed my shoes in a matter of one week walking around this city. I wouldnt be suprised if i need a new pair by germany. Anyway, jackie is making dinner tonight and i want to go to bed early since tomorrow we are going to tivoli to visit the villa d'este and villa adriana.

Walk a mile in my shoes

I estimated today, that we walk, at the minimum 2 miles a day, no matter what. Our apartment is about 1 mile from the rail station, and we have had to use it every day since our arrival. Today, at about 5 miles, was the least we have walked yet...outside anyway.
Yesterday we met at El Teatro Di Marcello, an old theatre made by caesar augustus, for the 'people'. Part of it was restored by Mussolini in the 30's and it sits right next to the old ghetto, which dates back to when only true romans could live within the city walls. The buildings in the old 'ghetto' were actually quite detailed ornate. They displayed the main color pallatte of Rome. Black, white, maroon and gold. An old large roman buliding sat at the back of the ghetto, which was used as a fish market during the time of mussolini.
After walking through the ghetto, we walked along the path on the tiber river. The water was high and flowing, and rather clean. the path, unfortuneately was not clean. As much as the city tries, the local football clubs tag the walls, in the city, predominantly by the river. Also, as we climbed a staircase out of the river, we walked by 6 used needles and a pile of human feces. Yuck. But i guess that too is part of the education of why i dont want to live here.
For the first part of lecture, we walked through El Campo De'Fiori. There was a market going on in the plaza and i bought a delicious blood orange to eat while i sketched. We then went to the Piazza Navona, where Mary presented the fountains of neptune and the sea nymphs. The plaza was a refreshing open area after the small and narrow alleys leading into it. Down one road sits a large sculpture of a rather cute elephant with an egyptian obelisk on its back. Beside this statue there were two gypsy boys playing music. One was about 8 years old and playing the violin, the other was about ten and playing the accordion. As they seemed to be bringing in quite a large amount of coin, i did not feel the need to contibute. However, the music did add the overall presence of the site while i sketched the elephant. behind the elephant sits the church of Santa Maria Sobre Minerva. We walked respedctively through the church and admired all the beautiful stonework. Since I am not catholic i did not sit down and kneel, but others in the class did as we passed by the tomb of St. cattherine. The day continued with a trip to the Trevi Fountain, where Neptune is Flanked by two horses, one the tame, one the wild to demonstrate the moods of the sea. The fountain is large and behind it sits a building whihc serves as a water basin. Supposedly, several, several years ago, in a restorattion project, a workman commmitted suicide from the top right window of the building. After his death, people spoke of seeing a face, and body reflected in the window. So many poeple saw it, and were bothere by it that eventually they boarded up the window and painted a fake window on the boards.
Four blocks from the trevi fountain sits the Spanish Steps, named for the spanish embassy to the holy seed. there are 138 steps that rise to an old church at the top of the hill, but that is all they are...steps. I climbed them twice, once because i felt i should, and twice to take a wheres waldo kind of photo. Class ended. Then it started raining. We went to a coffee shop and sat there sketching for about an hour. We then went back to the trevi fountain after the rain to finish some drawings that ended up getting rianed on anyway. We then went home to fall asleep very, very tired.
This morning we woke up at 530 to get to the vatican museum before the line was aroind the city. We got there, were very close to the front and spent the morning looking at old paintings and most importantly, the Sistine Chapel. Its gorgeous, Its beautiful, awesome, and inspiring. I did however find the woman lacking feminity, but when you can study women, you cant draw them, sorry Michealangelo. the museum is supposedly 4 miles to explore in its emtirety. My friends and i went through it twice before noon. After noon, we got lunch for 400 euro at a kabob place. Mine was very good as they ran out of pitas and had to use freschetta bread :). We walked by the city walls and headed to the Vatican Square for class. We met and learned about the city and its history. Apparently, the collonade is made up of pieces of the colleseum, how stupid of the romans...really. Anyway, I am tired and out of time. Also, my roomates have a homemade dinner waiting for me... Hopefully.

No more cowbell.

First of all, I have to say, that I have the best mom in the world. Because my washington mutual account got frozen, I had no access to money when we were supposed to pay in cash for our apartment in Rome, while covering two other people. My mom fixed the problem for me and got it done. Thank you Mom.
Ok, so since I am writing this from a internet cafe in Rome, you can tell that we made it on our ferry,which was very smoky. I dont want to get into it, but it was not the most fun experience of my life. Anyway, we got off the ferry in Athens and took a 40 minute bus to the airport. Having had no sleep, we spent most of the night sleeping on the floor with our arms wrapped in our luggage to keep be aware of our surroundings. Once we could check in however, we found some chairs that did not have arm rests and slept on them for 2 hours until our plane started to board. I dont remember much of the flight because I was sleeping, but we made it into Rome at about 830. We got our lugagge just fine and took the espress tram to the Rome Termini. We walked, in a most circuituous route i might add, with out heavy, heavy luggage, about 1 mile to our apartment, where at 1130 the manager met us to get us set up and paid. After we got settled in we immediately left to go meet Jeff Yuen at the train station. We found him at the McDonalds and walked back to the apartment. At the apartment I was the first to shower, and I am not sure if that was a good idea. There was absolutely no hot water and because the tap comes ffrom the mountains, I would say that it was even frigid. I did not get a full showre, i basically washed my hair....kinda, and got out. Only, as i got out, i shut the door to the shower too hard and dissconnected the door, thereby making it impossible to open from the outside. Yuen ended up having to climb over the showre door and into the showre in order to fix it. Anyway, we left not long after and headed to meet Joe(our professor) for an optional meeting at the giacommo(?) park. We walked for 2.5 hours on what we were told was a 15 min. one, because we were sent to the wrong place. It seemed as though we had seen all of Rome, except the neat stuff. Finally after turning around we found Joe and two other students who met him. We got to see a fantastic view of the city, and Joe showed us the American Academy at Rome, where he studied when he won the Rome Prize in 2003.
That was yesterday and this morning we met for class under the Arch of Constantine. This is right next to the Colleseum. First we went to a church of st clemente. This church, built in the 1500s was built over two previous churches, one of which was built way back in the first century. It was beautiful, but I have no pictures, only drawings, as photos were not allowed.
After the church, we climbed the Palatine hill to visit the old villa and waited in line for about an hour to buy tickets. It was worth it. The old villa of the emperors was large, and the gardens are very impressive. My group gave our presentation of italy while in that garden. After class we went to look at the ruins on the forum and the old stadium. Its amazing to see what they were capable of way back then. Even the aquaducts are built on a ratio of a 1 to 1000 slope. For those of you non architect/engineers, that means really slow, but sloping drainage. We walked by the arch of titus, and anothe won of whom i do not know. Though I do know that no Jew will walk under the arch of titus as it celebrates a battle he won against them in Jerusalem.
We met up with Joe once more to make plans for tommorrow then headed off to the Colleseum to explore it. because we already had tickets from the villa, we got to cut through the line, which would have taken hours and go inside. Its huge. It is not as huge as the portrayel in gladiator, but impressive nontheless. I cant believe it was made in only 10 years. they remade a set of staicases to use, that are very steep and remade a part by the floors, so that you can see how the seating arangedmnt was. The emperor sat near enough to get sprayed with the blood of any animal slave or gladiator out there. Its a shame that the people of rome dissassmbled much of the colleseo for builing materials, as it is very noble in stature, up until the quite obvious retrofits.
After the colleseo, we went to find dinner and had our both our first sit down italian meal, and my first unshared dinner. The pasta was made after we ordered and the cold water hit the spot. After dinner, we bought gelato for jeff for his birthdya and walked home.

Rome, being one the smelliest cities I have ever been in, has the best water I have evr tasted. Since the water poors from the mountains, they constantly run a stream of potable water from every hydrant. It always cold, and tastes so good. It also minimizes the amount of money spent on beverages :). Anyway, my water bottle i brought with me, when empty hits my hip and makes a sound that reminds jeff yuen of a cowbell. Today when we were on the palantine hill, i dropped it, right after i filled it, and it broked, sending a stream of delicious water down the hill...so no no more cowbell.

I think I saw Larry Byrd today.